Harley Davidsons arrive in Grantown.

Shame, I've been trying to load the video that Ralph took because the noise of 3000 (?) Harley Davidsons is something unmissable. It is on my Facebook page for my friends.
The rain was sheeting down in the morning and again at 5pm but inbetween the hours of 1pm and 5pm, it remained dry and even nearly sunny. I will await the newspaper report to give details of numbers, but just to say, this is a sight not to be missed.
I am now lusting after my own, a small HD 880, that has a low seat and needs to be steered round corners notleant. I had a big bike (Kawasaki 550 Zepher) and after falling off it several times on the hairpin bends that are all over Huddersfield including at the end of our street, and securing a new job with a company car, I sold the Zepher. When I took up biking again in 2009, I got a 125cc again but found it underpowered and would be no good here on the long, uncluttered Scottish roads. Perfect for the communte through Bradford and Halifax though and was sold easily when I left the farm.
I haven't felt the need of a bike as I don't go anywhere that doesn't entail taking the dog, the canoe, the tent, Dad or the bikes. But now I am to start volunteering at the Dolphin Project...I do have somewhere to go!!
I'll tell you more about the Dolphin Project after I have been for my first day as a shadow on Tuesday.
Meantime, the Highland Games today had bright sunshine and Ralph and I climber Geal Charm Mor near Aviemore and had views north and south of the strath. Bliss.

The chaotic garden and revolution!

Oh, it looks so lush and I do have plenty of spinach, lettuce, kale, carrots, parsnips, the start of the sprouts and some broad beans...plenty chick weed too.
When the veg are finished, the chickens will clear it all up. There is potential for so much more and yesterday my letter appeared in the local paper; The Strathspey Herald. I was bemoaning the fact that so much land around Grantown is not being used despite the national park (Cairngorms National Park) and the estates professing to support wildlife, crofting and "grow your own" initiatives. Instead, beautiful fields stand neglected, either empty or rented by horse owners (well, just one horse owner who sub-lets even though I understand she is not supposed to) and they are being over-grown with ragwort (poisonous to livestock incidently) and bracken. The fields are also poached and water logged. Yet the estates will be receiving money for just owning this land.

Scotland and who owns the country makes for interesting reading. So too does the history of the land, from the Glen Coe massacre, the clearances, the Scots abroad, mainly Canada, and to modern times with the establishment of the national parks that seem to allow development indiscriminately. Shame not to nuture and adore this beautiful countryside.

Maybe I'll get a response to my letter...

Meantime, Grantown is full of tourists and motorbikes for the English Bank Holiday. Thunder in the Glen and the Highland Games and every bed is taken. The weather turned foul at 5pm and it rained and rained. Pity the campers and bikers but I'm sure it'll not dampen anyone's spirits...and my weeds will grow even more unwieldy!

The Last Day!

The walk takes you along the side of Glen Coe for 3 miles then climbs up and over The Devil's Staircase. We passed an orderly line of...German walkers who moved aside to let us pass. "Which bank have you robbed?" commented the leader. We laughed and said, "We've a long way to go...Fort William."
That is 23 miles and the two steepest climbs in one day as well.

The clouds cleared as we dropped down to Kinlochleven. The first sight of this wee town nestling in a steep sided valley is more industrial than rural, although the contrast of the lush green from the brown and grey of Glen Coe is remarkable. The photograph above is looking up towards the track we followed down, showing the hydro-electric scheme that dominates the entrance to the town.

The climb out of Kinlochleven is spectacular because of the views down Loch Leven. It took us a while to walk to the top of this climb as it grew steadily hotter and I grew steadily more hungry and Sandra grew steadily more tired. When we reached the top where the path evens out, I stopped and attacked my picnic lunch from Kingshouse!

Lairigmor is a steady trek at around 1000' and is very beautiful although exposed and there was a stiff breeze which in the sun was actually quite welcome. It is easy going with a good track until reaching the forestry. Sadly another industrial landscape when the trees are felled, as these were. The chopped woods always remind me of Paul Nash's paintings of war scapes.

It was lovely to enter into the soft paths of the pine woods and have the shelter of the trees overhead and the comfort of pine needles underfoot. Then Ben Nevis...with this strange cloud formation hanging over the dreadful path that winds its way clearly up the side.

Obce Ben Nevis was on our right, we knew we were very nearly at the end of our walk. It would have been nice to finish at the Visitors Centre but there was a a mile and a half to the end...or at least the end as Sandra knew it... Her husband was waiting for her there...mine was still a mile away at the centre of Fort William at the new end. Shame. John could have driven us there but we decided having come so far we would make it to the "new end" and thus ended our West Highland Way walk.

I enjoyed every minute. I loved the scenery, the places we stayed at, the weather, the company of Sandra and our German acquaintances and all the others we met briefly. I would recommend this trip to anyone who is of reasonable fitness but you don't have to be super-fit. There are plenty of baggage transporters which would take the weight off your shoulders and back for sure, but whether that would disrupt your sense of making your own way, I can't be sure.

Scotland is a beautiful country. I have many more paths to explore.

Kingshouse Hotel.

Arriving at Kingshouse in the hot sunshine of an August weekend, perhaps we should not have been surprised to find it so busy. A woman we had met earlier in the day (walking north to south) had told us that we would find excellent service at the hotel, unsurpassed in the Highlands despite her lengthy experience travelling around.

She was right. There were no waits for registration, dinner, the bar or breakfast. At breakfast we were actually 15 minutes early, wanting to get started asap on the last leg of 23 miles to Fort William, and the motherly, efficient "front of house" took our order and brought us a waitress to take our order with no hesitation.
The bedroom was so quiet that it was differcult to believe the hotel was so busy and it had a BATH, much to Sandra's delight. She had commented on descending towards the hotel how much she would love a bath and I expressed extreme doubt. So she had her bath!
Out on the lawn, supping lager, Sven came to sit with us and we spent the evening learning about the German's view of our NHS, environmental policies and power, the economy, languages, the psychology of relationships...and after our evening meal, we were joined by 2 more Germans, a couple who were equally good company, eloquent and had extensive English vocabulary, it probably surpassed my own.
I forget their names but the young man had 8 languages and also the language of music. We ended up in a room with a piano and we sang him Scottish songs for him to play by ear. His musical interpretation was much more melodic and in key than Sandra's and my efforts.
A lovely evening.

The next day, an Australian that we spoke to en route remarked that it should be called "The West German Way" but that evening in Kingshouse was very pleasant and it was just sad that we had to retire early so as to get up for our walk the next day. Photo below, leaving the next morning in the only cloudy weather we had...but it does add to the atmosphere of Glen Coe.

Rannoch Moor

After a wonderful breakfast; (Sandra had porridge and the full Scottish while I had eggs from their free range hens and proper field mushrooms fried in butter plus home made jam, slurp!) we set off on the longest day so far across Rannoch Moor to Glencoe.

My walking club (Huddersfield Rucksack Club and yes, I'm still a paid up member) had many dire warnings for me about the trudge across Rannoch Moore but they obviously hadn't walked it in sunny, balmy conditions.
For me the most boring walking of the whole 95 miles was the section between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy when we followed the route of the A82 which could be clearly seen and heard from the track. The noise of traffic was intrusive and the scenery was mundane. It was easy walking and we made good time but I was glad to leave Bridge of Orchy and continue on  to Inveroan over a scenic bump and to Rannoch Moor. The colours of the grass, gold and red, gently waving like a shimmer of water. Stunning.

The unexpected delight of Rannoch Moor was enhanced by the oasis at Ba Bridge. Here there were a few people gathered and we met again Sven who had been at our B&B (Glengarry, did I mention the name?) and had wished us a good day before departing at least an hour before us. There were a good many Germans en route, probably due to the dire warnings the British folk had given each other about weather and midges.
We walked 19 miles that day. Walking down to Kingshouse was breathtaking with the startling Ben Etvie greeting us at the head of Glen Coe. Even in the sun, Glen Coe looking haunting and wild, the hotel looked remote and deserted from the distance and we slowed as it came in sight, glad to have made our next night's refuge in 8 hours.

The Best Bed and Breakfast place I've ever been to...

Leaving Inverannan we walked through Glen Falloch towards Crianlarich. Todays walk was only 12 miles and now we were definitely getting fitter. We could easily have made it to Bridge of Orchy but we had booked at Tyndrum so we strolled along the beautiful glen and Strath Fillan. The area is decorated with a backdrop of Munros. The warmth made them hazy but no less spectacular and I wish my camera and photography skills did them justice.
We came across another campsite (Auchtertyre) which was away from roads and any noise. It looked blissful and I think I could easily spend a week there. This was a farm and had a small shop and cabins like the one we'd left and smaller. A noticeboard here informed me that we were looking at 3 Munros from here, Ben Lui at 3708' being the highest.

We stopped for a paddle before walking nearly to Tyndrum.
The Glengarry B&B is located 200 yards off the WHW and it is signposted with white sticks. I was rather alarmed to see it was right on the main road but I need not have worried. It was blissful.
We were there at 2.35pm...!! We were so fit by this time, that our 12 miles seemed like a stroll in the park. Also this stretch is easy on the eye and underfoot so that makes the going easier.

We were greeted with tea and homemade cake, a beautiful sopacious, quiet and clean room with roomy shower and to Sandra's delight, a hairdrier! The little luxuries included "Skin So Soft". We sat in their conservatory reading a great selection of magazines before setting off to the village centre for a meal. We were even offered a lift, it's only 4oo yards!
The evening was so hot that we sat outside (for a lager) before heading to the cafe for our salads. The menu was extensive, cheap, well prepared and imaginative. No wonder the place was packed.
A lovely night's sleep.
Glengarry House (glengarryhouse@supanet.com) and on the WHW accommodation list. I'm not getting paid for this plug and in fact although I tried to put a report on Trip Adviser, I couldn't be bothered doing all the registration.

Along the North Side of Loch Lomond.

We had a good breakfast at the hostel and set off in good time for our 14 mile walk to Inverarnan. It was another hot day and we enjoyed the shelter of the trees. This part of the lochside walk is quite hard with lots of scrambling over rocks and trees but for the first part this section of lochside path was closed due to erosion from all the rain. Instead we made good progress over the first 4 miles walking on a forest track.
The rest of the path follows the loch closely until the end of the loch just opposite Ardlui, where we were booked in for a night at a B&B.

The above picture was taken at Inversnaid which is half way along the route. The hotel allows passers-by to use their toilet facilities! How pleasant to have this attitude rather than signs stating "FOR RESIDENTS ONLY". Needed as well.
Across the loch from Ardlui, the path continued up the side of Cnap Mor and down into a campsite at Beinglas Farm. Here there was a welcome sight of a bar, cold lager and some little wooden huts which used to be wigwams apparently. The option of travelling on the busy A82 back to Ardlui seemed a very uninviting prospect.
When I booked this B&B I wan't aware that it was so far off the WHW as it was listed on the website as accommodation. I assumed we could catch a bus easily enough but we succumbed to a cold lager and booked a cabin at the campsite instead. I called the B&B of course and gave the heat as a reason for not making it that far!
We did go the Hotel (name?) and had a beer there later but decided to eat at the campsite bar intsead. We had excellent food (curry for S and burger for me) and breakfast was good too so were very pleased we made that decision.
Sandra had a harder night than me after a fall during the walk when she landed heavily on her right side, left her a bit sore on the hard bench beds.

There were midges here because we could see people in tents swathed in their nets looking like zombies and slightly unnerving, but we weren't bothered by them. After all we had our little hut. (above)

Drymen to Rowardennan

This stretch of the walk is familiar to me as I have walked this way a few times. Jo has lived in Drymen for at least 15 years because I remember the first Munro her son completed at the age of 3! It was Ben Lomond of course. which is just above Rowardennan.

Jo walked with us to Balmaha which is at the south end of Loch Lomond and the route takes you near to the top of Conic Hill (1175') and we did go the top for the photos. It is a spectacular view and was being enjoyed by all and sundry on this hot summers day. This is Sandra and I and Jo's  dog, Buffy.

Balmaha was HEAVING! We found a bench and ate the sandwiches Jo had prepared for us then she ran home while Sandra and I continued along the lochside.

Most of the lochside is now restricted to picnic areas rather than camping due to the amount of litter being left by folk. Even the residue of the picnics made it look a untidy because people just don't take their rubbish home and leave burnt out fire sites on the sandy shores.

Despite this, it is a beautiful walk with lovely stretches of woodland that are quiet and glimpses of views along the length of the southern loch.

It is an easy 14 miles but because of the heat we were happy to reach the hotel and carpark with toilets to wash off some of the sweat and sun lotion. 

The YHA is another 5 minutes walk away from the hotel and it is beautiful old hunting lodge, which sadly I didn't take a photograph of. I had booked a twin bed room which I had forgotten about so felt estatic on being given a key to our peaceful home for the night.

Normally the YHA do serve meals even if you haven't booked but not this evening as there were so many people staying...young people from Belgium. So we walked back to the hotel and had a really nice meal for £10 ish then fed the residue to their ducks and chickens. (Sandra had Angus Beef Burger and chips and I had fajhitas which were excellent). And cold lager.

We sat out in the sunshine until late without jackets or midge spray. Was this really the WHW?

You've seen the photos...

This is a record for my own diary. I didn't keep a diary as it meant extra paper and pens to carry when I was doing everything to keep down the weight of my rucksack so this a restropective account.
I had booked the accommodation for August 8th - 11th, except for the last night in Fort William (12th Aug) by Feb 5th. I am the sort of person who needs to do things ASAP.
I used the WHW website accommodation list and booked a YHA, 2 B&Bs, and a hotel, plus my friend's place in Drymen.
I have a lot to thank Jo for because it is due to her that we picked the week that we did. I needed to fit in Sandra's English school holidays with Jo and Adie's holiday in France and their visit to London for the Olympics. Perhaps I would have chosen the following week so as not to miss the 2nd week of the Olympics but at that time I didn't think I would become as captivated as the rest of the country did by our home games, so I chose the first week following Jo's return to Drymen.
Sandra bought a bus ticket from Derby to Inverness so she changed at Glascow then continued up the A9 to Aviemore. I had asked her to try and alight at Aviemore because this town is just 14 miles away not 32 miles like Inverness Like her trip past Glascow, she would duplicating an immediate return journey on the same route.
She arrived in Grantown at 10.15pm and by 9am the next day we were on our way back down the A9 to Glascow.
Milngarvie is the starting point of the West Highland Way. Ralph left us to drive on down to York to his mother's, and by the time he reached York, Sandra and I were already sitting in the garden chez Jo, being plied with French cheese and oat cakes and our contribution of cold tins of larger which Sandra and I mostly polished off.
The first day was hot. We walked the 12 miles through the lovely (although not so lovely named) Mugdock Country Park. People were smiling and offering us good wishes for our journey ahead and we were full of life on the nearly flat well made up path.
The tarmac from Gartness into Drymen was the worst part of the whole trip. Although still fairly gentle and undulating, it was too hot and too hard underfoot. Hence the cold lagers!
This 12 miles took us 4 hours.

West Highland Way

Conic Hill, lower Loch Lomond.

Mid way, Loch Lomond.

End Loch Lomond.

Cabin at Inverannan

Cooling off near Tyndrum

Ben Lui.

Rannoch Moor

Kingshouse, Glen Coe

Kinlochleven

Coming into Fort William (phew)

Finishing the West Highland Way.

95 miles. 5 and a half days. Warm, sunny days (except a bit of cloud in Glen Coe which is a must for Glen Coe!) Perfect holiday.
This is Sandra and I sat at the end last Sunday.
I can't load all the photos here as it takes too long but I will let you have a glimpse over the next few days.
The WHW starts in Milngarvie which is on the outskirts of Glascow and winds its way along Loch Lomond, through to Glen Coe and finishing in Fort William. I organised it around the places to stay; my friend's Jo's house in Drymen, the YHA in Rowerdennan, a campsite hut in Inverannan, a wonderful B&B in Tyndrum and the Kingshouse Hotel in Glencoe.
The scenery was beautiful and all the dire warnings I received about midges and rain were unfounded. Sandra and I got on very well and we met a few pleasant people en-route, including 3 of the many Germans completing the walk. One walker remarked it should be called the West German Way. However the paths were not crowded and for most of the time we walked alone.
I'm back home, having being dropped off and picked up by Ralph who visited his mother in the interim. The sun still shines and I'm busy weeding while I can.
I amy have missed the second week of the Olympics but I would not have missed the perfect weather last week for anything.

Free food!

Mmmm, look at those delicious chantrelles being gently fried in butter! We met a man in the woods who was collecting them and I queried how you can tell false chantrelles from the real thing and he said they just don't grow round here. Well, take a man at his word, we picked a small amount and then tried them a home. No halucinations - the false chantrelles are halucegenic apparently. (think I need to check the spelling on that).
So now our daily walk is turning into a fungus foray. Tonight Ralph is just adding them to his Shephards Pie but yesterday we consumed all of the above as a starter...yum.
Please note; Ralph's Shephard Pie. Yes, he still does turn his hand to the kitchen duties occasionally. The Channel 4 news often gets in the way.
Also there are wild raspberries and blaeberries (blueberries to you lot in England) for picking. These are tine though and we are just eating them as we walk round. The paper said today that soft fruit in England is way behind the usual time for ripening but with all the rain, the fruit is well formed, therefore delicious. Scottish strawberries grown up the road at Nairn and so nice but we do have to buy them, next year I'm planning on my own being abundant enough.
4 days until my walking holiday!